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May 14, 2001
Location - Guanay, Bolivia
It is mid-winter in Bolivia and very cold outside.
This is supposed to be the dry season but the rain continues
to fall. However, despite the challenging weather conditions,
the expedition is now very much underway. Prince Leopold's
recce party is steadily moving towards Mount Paititi.
They've been trudging through dense secondary jungle
across tracks, which are muddy and slippery as a result
of the incessant rain. Over 1500 years ago, in the time
of the Inca, the hills that the team is now climbing
were terraced fields but with the passage of time lush
tropical forests have encroached on these abandoned
slopes.
The trek up the mountain has not been uneventful. The
team has encountered an abundance of wildlife. Hochi,
large rodents the size of small dogs, are very common
and can be seen scurrying around the forest floor. The
group has also been acutely conscious of the presence
of snakes slithering around in search of small mammals.
The tracks of jaguar and puma have been spotted, indicating
that these large predators are lurking somewhere in
the vicinity. Monkeys and birds are common and are less
intimidating sights. Their ceaseless chatter and singing
are a welcome cacophony, which filters through the jungle
canopy. Not so welcome are the biting insects, which
are everywhere. Despite the hardships of the jungle
climb, the team located the Rio Merke that skirts Mount
Paititi. It runs deep but can be crossed. However, in
order to ferry our stores across to the opposite bank
we will have to construct a 120-foot aerial rope-bridge.
The mules and packhorses though will have to swim across.
At the expedition headquarters, in the little gold
mining town of Guanay, Craig Halford has thrown himself
at the task of advising the local people on flood prevention.
The town was affected by floods earlier this year and
therefore such assistance is welcomed by the local people.
The team of 12 Royal Engineers will arrive in a few
days. We will then be heading up the mountain following
in the footsteps of the recce party. Our task will be
to improve the trail to Mt. Paititi and construct the
aerial ropeway and improvised bridges.
Lt. Col Ernie Durey, a veteran jungle explorer, is
also busy at headquarters amassing the necessary stores
and equipment for the journey up to Paititi. Captain
Katie Gledhill's mules and packhorses will be responsible
for carrying the equipment up the mountain. Katie, an
officer of the Royal Army Veterinary Corps, will be
accompanied by four other female horse handlers, and
their task will be one of the toughest on the expedition.
As stated in the last report, Colonel John Blashford-Snell,
Captain Jim Masters and Yolima Cipagauta, have been
in Southern Bolivia, examining the deep gorge of the
Rio Grande in preparation for next year's Kota Mama
Expedition. However, while flying in their light aircraft
they encountered swirling clouds and high winds in the
great canyon. "Suddenly, with cliffs closing in
on us we ran into nil visibility." said Jim "It
was pretty uncomfortable and we were forced to abort
the mission." Jim plans to return to the area in
June when the weather improves.
At Lake Titicaca, the Aymara Indians building the reed
trimaran "Kota Mama III" have almost completed
their task. This craft is sponsored by JP Knight Ltd,
tug operators in Rochester, UK, who also provided assistance
for the reed-built flagship used in the 1999 expedition.
In Bolivia's capital, La Paz, environmental law expert
Professor Bill Holmes of Oxford University is busy providing
advice to Bolivian governmental bodies and lecturing
at the Catholic University of Bolivia Law School. The
expedition is strongly supported by the Bolivian Army
and the Prefectura (regional government) of La Paz.
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