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June
18, 2001
Rio
Sama
Over 2000 people gathered on
the banks of the Rio Mapiri, a small gold mining town
of Guanay on Saturday 16 June, to view the launch of
what is to be a 4500 km voyage of the traditional reed
boat "Kota Mama III" and the balsa raft "Southern
Gailes" from the Andes to the Atlantic.
In spite of the political
unrest in the area and a national strike, people had
come from far and wide to witness this extraordinary
and historic event. Bedecked with the flags of the participating
nations the 9-metre reed trimaran and the 9-metre balsa
raft, built by Aymara Indians on Lake Titicaca, were
the centre of attention. Two locally made 18 metre mahogany
boats and a 13-metre "chata" barge will be
supporting the traditional craft up to the Brazilian
frontier 530 miles from the starting point. Two Avon
inflatables are acting as tenders and safety boats.
Mariner and Suzuki outboards are providing power and
BP (Bolivia) has supplied the fuel. Captain Jim Masters,
one of the most experienced river navigators in the
world, is "Admiral" of the fleet and Captain
Matt Wilkinson, Royal Engineers, is skipper of Kota
Mama III. The balsa is currently helmed by Bolivian
river man Julio Capiona. The expedition's pilot is Bolivian
Eddy Loaiza who has also built the mahogany boats, the
chata and the balsa. He has advised Expedition Leader
Colonel John Blashford-Snell since the beginning of
the expedition and is familiar with the rapids between
Guanay and Rurrenabaque.
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.... And we're off!
The sun was shining when at 11.30
am the ceremony began with the playing of the national
anthems of Bolivia and Great Britain. A choir of Guanay
school children sang "God Save the Queen"
in English accompanied by the school's band, which had
practised for weeks. Members of national and local governments
thanked the expedition for all its work in the region.
A beautiful model of a balsa raft cast in local gold
was given to JBS. A service in English conducted by
Rev Philip Kittelson, Mayor of nearby Caranavi included
the hymn, "Eternal Father Strong to Save"
[for those in peril on the sea]. Then JBS gave the order
to cast off and with the house flag of J.P. Knight [Kota
Mama III's sponsors] flying, the reed boat was pushed
into the current. The crew gave three cheers for Bolivia
and the crowds applauded and fireworks exploded overhead.
As the boats sailed downstream with the red ensign flying
proudly from the stern of the "Kota Mama III"
and "Southern Gailes" the band struck up "Rule
Britannia".
Battling the rapids
Within minutes the crew, who apart
from two members of the earlier Kota Mama expeditions
[Jim and Gerry Masters] had no previous experience of
handling reed boats, were battling the rapids of the
fast flowing river. Bucking through the waves the three
jaguar figureheads rose and fell majestically, their
expressions seeming to say, "what on earth are
we doing here?" Making 22 km in 2 1/3 hours the
fleet stopped at the village of Tomache where a welcome
awaited with displays of dancing. Medical and dental
aid was given by the expedition. On 17 June the temperature
suddenly dropped from 28 degrees centigrade to 12 degrees
centigrade as a cold front swept in. With it came heavy
rain, low clouds and soon teeth were chattering. At
1030 hours the fleet tackled the big rapid of Retama
[only grade 3 on the international scale but a challenge
for a reed boat]. A huge rock in the centre of the river
restricted the waterway but Kota Mama III shot through
in fine style to the cheers of onlookers. Now, there
are no major rapids until the fleet reaches the Esperanza
cataract near the Brazilian border around 4 July. Driving
rain and bitter wind chilled the crew throughout the
day and they were glad to stop at a small farm after
65 km-a very good day's run. A pet spider monkey was
a source of much amusement at the farm.
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18 June dawned cold [10 degrees centigrade]
but dry and the team met with some poor Musetenes Indians
who demonstrated their bows and showed their pet baby
white lipped peccary [a dangerous variety] and a tejon
or raccoon-an amusing little fellow. Meanwhile, dentist
Graham Catchpole took out his 500th tooth on the expedition.
Discoveries
At 1300 hrs came exciting news by
radio from Bruce Mann and Elizabeth Dix, who continued
their archaeological quest downstream. In the past 2
days they have studied many ancient rock drawings or
petroglyphs on boulders beside the river but now had
made a much more important discovery. Led by a Musetenes
Indian they came to an eroded riverbank in dense jungle,
where complete funerary urns some containing bones were
exposed. The urns were 60-70 cm high and 50-60 cm wide
and adorned with red, white and black patterns. There
were also finger mark decorations around rims. Until
further experts are consulted, dating is not possible
but it is likely that this is a most important early
site. "I could not believe my eyes," said
Bruce. "I was astounded by the richness of the
finds," said Elizabeth. "It seems this is
a complete cemetery and we wonder where the settlement
it served is located."
Stopping for the night
The fleet then negotiated the sheer
sided Beu-Beu canyon where some very detailed petroglyphs
were found. Some depicted long-limbed spider monkeys
and human like figures.
Camp was established at the
Rio Sama junction where the fishing has proved excellent
and a 12-pound golden Dorado was caught for supper.
Tomorrow the fleet sails on to Rurrenabaque.
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