|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
Click
images for enlarged view
October 4th 1999
From Paraguay to Paraná
It's been a while since we've been
able to put together an update - the team that put together
the Internet reports, photographs and recordings has been
somewhat dispersed since we left Asuncion. The main fleet
is in the city of Paraná on the river of the same name,
waiting for us to rejoin it. Waiting for a bus, it's a
perfect opportunity to start the web report; the Sight
and Sound laptops really help out at moments like these.
It's been an interesting couple of weeks. Our time in
Asuncion, which seems a long way off now, was a time for
meetings and greetings, a chance to pass on the information
and reports we had gathered while travelling through northern
Paraguay. Details of all the projects, the successes and
the disappointments, have been passed on to different
Ministries, government officials and museum curators who,
we hope, will add the reports to their databases and incorporate
some of the suggestions and outcomes in future plans.
We will be including many of these reports on the internet
site at a later date to ensure the information is distributed
as widely as possible.
While Colonel John Blashford Snell spent a couple of days
in meetings, most expedition members took time out to
rest. One group visited the vast steam locomotive workshop
at Sapucai, 60kms southeast of Asuncion. Staffed by the
British who built and ran the Paraguayan rail network
from the 1860s until the 1960s when the network was nationalised,
the workshop still has nine British-built engines two
of which are still in working order.
That evening we had a slot on prime time TV on Canal 4.
Humberto Rubin, with his son Leon, interviewed Dick Snailham
and Peter Hutchison, while Marigold Verity played her
harp. The appearance was great publicity for the expedition,
an excellent opportunity to promote Anglo-Paraguayan relations
and Rocket's last public appearance with the group before
going off to stay in his new home.
Our second day, a gift from the First Lady to thank expedition
members for their work, was a trip to visit two Wonders
of the World in one day. Itaipu Dam is the largest hydroelectric
plant in the world, producing 12,600MW from turbines driven
by the waters of the Paraná. The immense dam wall contains
62,000,000m3 of concrete - 15 times the amount used in
the Eurotunnel.
Travelling south we visited Iguazu
Falls, a series of 275 waterfalls covering 2.5kms making
them the longest falls in the world. Many members of the
expedition have travelled extensively. Those lucky enough
to have seen Victoria and Niagara Falls had not expected
to see a set of waterfalls that could match those
magnificent landmarks. All came back in awe of the glorious
falls that were used in the opening scenes the film The
Mission.
We left several people behind in Asuncion. Insolence and
rebellion cannot be tolerated on an expedition like this,
but we left Andrew Millar, Marie Peralta, Shaun Linsley
and Charles Sturge behind for completely different reasons.
Andrew, Marie and Shaun formed a land party to carry out
archaeological work in the south of Paraguay. Charles
stayed in Asuncion to await the arrival of a new JVC digital
video camera. Charles is the official expedition photographer
and cameraman. He and this fascinating little box of tricks
slightly larger than a Walkman can always be found close
to the action to get the story on tape and film. An accident
close to Cerro Corá had damaged
the original camera and Charles was hoping to get a replacement
sent out by JVC as soon as possible. Without the camera
and Charles we would almost certainly miss many of the
images used on the website.
The
long sail south
As we left Asuncion the long sail south began. While Quijarro
completed an engine service, Kota Mama II and Viracocha
set off to get a good start for the 428kms journey to
Corrientes in northern Argentina.
Soon after Asuncion, at the confluence of the Paraná and
Pilcomayo rivers, the west bank of the Paraná becomes
Argentina. Our first Argentine journalists came on board
Kota Mama to interview crew members for a television broadcast.
Kota Mama spent a night away from
the Quijarro. Camping out on the riverbank is a peaceful
time for chewing the fat of the day, enjoying the quiet
of the evening and an excellent opportunity to perfect
the fine art of mosquito swatting. For this website writer
the evening proved to be the bliss and tranquility he
hoped for.
Travelling downstream it was easy to see the difference
between the two countries on either side of the river.
As we stopped in the dusty, ramshackle streets of Puerto
Alberdi, Paraguay, for refuelling, the glass skyscrapers
of Formosa on the western bank pushed into the clear blue
sky over Argentina
The town of Pilar was an interesting spot to stop as the
small town had a cabildo, a meeting hall, used as the
headquarters of Marshal Francisco Solano Lopez in the
Triple Alliance war. We were also told of a British built
paddle steamer, the Tacurai, which had sailed from Britain
in the 1850s and had been scuttled in the Triple Alliance
campaign close to the small town of Humaita. The following
day we visited the town where the remains of a shell-damaged
church stood as evidence of the Triple Alliance campaign,
but were unable to obtain a firm location for the wreck.
150 years of sediment has almost certainly buried it under
tonnes of mud washed down by the River Paraguay.
Our last night in Paraguay was spent on the banks of the
river, several kilometres upstream from the Argentine
frontier.
No
tears for Argentina
An early start was made worse by the hours of sleep lost
moving into Argentina. Our schools' broadcast had to be
carried out on the move, but by now we have the hang of
shifting the satellite to compensate for the movement
of the Quijarro.
As we travelled with the River Paraguay to join the River
Paraná the current increased from 3.5kmh to around 6kmh;
as the two massive rivers merged to become one we joined
the mighty waters that would take us all the way south
to our destination, Buenos Aires. Since joining the river
our average speed has risen from 10kmh to 14kmh.
Arriving in Argentina, we tied up under the skyscrapers
of Corrientes for a four-hour wait in the blistering midday
heat of 35°C to clear customs. A cool day by Corrienten
standards where summer temperatures regularly exceed 40°C.
Our arrival was made more enjoyable by the sight of a
slight figure standing on the port side with a shiny box
held up to his squinting eye; Charles Sturge had made
it to Corrientes with a new JVC camera.
Marsh
deer survey
Our main task in Argentina was to carry out a survey of
marsh deer in the Esteros de Ibera - the land of shining
water - east of Corrientes. This vast marshland covers
an area of 120,000 square km and is home to the endangered
South American marsh deer. Until recently the animal populations
were in decline but recent attempts to protect the species
have led to a recovery in numbers.
First spending time at the beautiful Estancia San Juan
Poriahú, hosted by Marcos Garcia Rams, we explored the
area for wildlife, in particular the marsh deer. We sighted
four close to the camp in the two days we spent at the
ranch. Using horses and small boats we were able to explore
the marshes and lakes of the area and although we saw
no more deer, we found large numbers of animals and birdlife.
Moving further west to Gov Virasoro, our stay was sponsored
by Charles Pettit and his family, whom we met through
the Anglo-Argentine Society in London. Charles has a large
estancia producing tea, lumber and yerba mate - an extremely
popular drink consumed throughout Paraguay and northern
Argentina. Drunk hot, as mate, or cold, as terere, the
acquired taste of yerba mate is almost a national institution
in Argentina with the average person consuming 7kgs over
the course of a year.
Charles and his family gave us the comforts and welcome
that come from exceptional people. Charles also gave us
the logistical support to continue the marsh deer survey
of the area. Using a microlight and an ultralight, we
were able to scan the marshlands from the skies, counting
57 marsh deer in total. On some days stormy skies and
strong winds prevented us flying, so we set out in boats
- again provided by the Pettit family's extensive network
of contacts. The ultralight was fitted with floats for
landing on water allowing us to try to get close to the
normally shy marsh deer.
Sadly neither boat group found any marsh deer, making
us even more grateful for the low-level flying capacity
of the light aircraft.
Visits to the nearby yerba mate plantation and factory,
along with a trip to the nearby Jesuit Missions of southern
Paraguay and northern Argentina, demonstrated the diversity
of natural and cultural potential in the area for ecotourism.
Back
to the boats
Saying goodbye to the comforts of the Pettit house and
home, the land party rejoined the flotilla to find a crew
that had been equally happy enjoying the comforts of travelling
in a smaller group. The inspiration behind the expedition
- the notion that civilisations living in the altiplano
region of South America could have travelled the route
several thousand years ago - was proved more likely as
Kota Mama II and Viracocha sailed downstream without support
from the rest of the team.
The totora reed boats had travelled almost 600kms in just
over five days, moving faster on the swollen currents
of the River Paraná. Winds continued to come from an unfavourable
direction, but we are hoping for a change in the weather
so we can enjoy some good sailing before reaching Buenos
Aires next week.
All
together again
The smaller overland party, returning from their exploration
of southern Paraguay, reported success after visiting
Lake Ypoa. Shaun Linsley carried out a survey of the lake
and the immediate area to assess its potential as a National
Park. The diversity of birdlife and the vastness of the
lake - 5kms by 15kms - with several islands made the region
worth protecting and certainly worth a visit for people
interested in nature
Archaeologist Andrew Millar carried out a few trial pits
on 250-year-old Guaraní sites on the lakeshore. Three
different species of molluscs used as food by settlers
in the region were found along with fish and capybara
bones. Decorated pottery, similar to burial urns seen
in the Ethnographic Museum in Asuncion and at sites further
north, was also found.
Sailing
on south
Leaving Paraná, in the state of
Entre Rios, the entire group prepare for the last week
of the expedition. We are travelling with Fabio Stricci
of the Prefectura Naval - the Argentine Coast Guard who
police this massive internal waterway - who is smoothening
the way for our journey as we head downriver. Fabio
has quickly become an essential and popular member of
the team and his work has not only assisted with the river
journey, but has assured us high level publicity. As we
travel downstream, the Prefectura vessels bring TV crews,
radio and newspaper reporters from the local and national
press to report on our progress.
Without the support of so many sponsors this expedition
in all its complicated facets, would not be possible.
All involved with the expedition are immensely grateful
for the support.
The
final stretch
With just one week to go we have to avoid complacency.
Less vigilance increases the likelihood of accidents,
something we have managed to avoid so far. The more experienced
expeditioners on the trip have reminded the whole crew
of this several times.
So this last week is not a time to relax, but it is an
opportunity to reflect on the expedition so far. We're
using up the last of supplies. The boxes of Beanfeast
provided by Bachelors, the Sweet'n'Sour Chicken from McDougall's
along with other vital foodstuffs that have become an
integral part of our diet have been supplemented by a
large donation of chicken soup from Alimentos Genser of
Argentina. Carlos Vittone, the Director of Genser, was
only too pleased to support an expedition that celebrates
the cultural richness of South America.
Now we are battling against strong winds that are creating
the most testing conditions the boats have had to endure.
The conditions are akin to those in open seas, and we
must now decide whether we are to press ahead or look
for shelter at the next possible opportunity. |
|
| |
|
|
|
