|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
| |
Click
images for an enlarged view
October 10th 1999
Final Expedition Internet Update
High
winds and heavy storms make
for a testing last leg
South America's land of extremes hit the Expedition
and decided to make for the most challenging test for
Kota Mama II and Viracocha so far. Winds gusting to over
60mph, whipped up waves of over 4mts and gave the two
reed boats a battering. As the river changes it's course
on its way to the Atlantic, the winds hit the fleet from
different directions, but the boats coped with the pounding.
The only damage to the boats was a slight wearing of the
outer skin of the reeds where the fabric of the reeds
had been weakened by two months of pulling into river
banks. Assessing the damage and carrying out some simple
repairs after the three-day storm Erik Catari said, "the
boats are still in perfect condition. They are well-balanced
and structurally very sound."
While the totora boats are still
used on the relatively calm waters of Lake Titicaca, it
was these very conditions that we wanted to encounter
to explore how the boats would cope in severe weather.
They performed admirably. In many ways Kota Mama II coped
better than the support vessel Quijarro. Being shorter
in length, she was able to ride out the frequency of the
waves with less of a battering.
Sailing into Rosario, the second largest city in
Argentina, we were struck for the first time on the expedition
by a truly modern metropolis. The dramatic Monument of
the Flag dominates the riverside skyline, and celebrates
the life and death of the General Manuel Belgrano who
designed the Argentine flag. Behind this calm riverfront,
the city buzzes with energy, having moved away from the
river-dependent economy that saw it's creation.
The
beginning of the end
The storm behind us, there was little more planned on
the itinerary. The sense of completion that comes at the
end of an expedition was beginning to creep in as we enjoyed
the last nights on the riverbank beside a fire, singing
songs and playing games. The jokes and games that had
inevitably crept in after spending three months with each
other were publicly exposed in a night of song, dance
and high culture that included light operatics and poetry.
Each member of the crew was given the spotlight and performed.
Some wrote songs and sketches especially for the event
and not surprisingly some people were given a harder time
being hauled over the coals than most. Despite the mickey
taking, John Blashford Snell, the Masters brothers and
even young Owain Davies were not given too hard a time…
officially.
Brief stops in San Nicholas, Zarate and Compana marked
our journey downstream as we entered the last week with
the kilometres between us and our destination reducing
quicker than expected. At port and while sailing we were
constantly entertaining public and press who had heard
about our journey downriver. When we arrive in port, word
quickly gets round that there is something to see down
by the river, and we quickly find ourselves working as
a floating public attraction.
The last few weeks have seen a dramatic change in the
river and the climate. The river takes us downstream at
a comfortable speed and the Argentine system of policing
the river, controlled by the Prefectura Naval, makes for
easier navigation.
As the River Paraná meets the River Uruguay, the newly
formed Rio de la Plata - River of Silver - breaks up into
several different channels separated by small islands.
While the storm gave us a battering,
most of us hoped that once it had passed, the warm temperatures
that accompanied most of our journey would return. But
no, gentle breezes and temperatures around 13°C are here
to stay. We should have noticed the spring flowers
on the banks of the river on the Rio de la Plata. But
the acclimatisation is welcome for those of us returning
to Britain in Autumn. Those from the Bahamas will have
to simply put up with returning to the cloudless skies
the islands provide.
What's
new... Buenos Aires
The final day's sailing took us to Tigre Sailing Club,
around 40kms north of Buenos Aires. There we hosted a
reception for the Prefectura Naval, the British Ambassador
and some of our sponsors including American Airlines and
J.P.Knight.
The smaller vessel, Viracocha, has been donated to the
Prefectura Naval museum in Tigre and Kota Mama II is being
shipped back to England where it will sit in a museum.
She must return upstream to Campana to be prepared for
shipping to set sail later this month to arrive in the
UK around Christmas.
So
what have we achieved?
Sitting here in Buenos Aires reflecting over the voyage
of the last two months it is difficult to think clearly
of what we have achieved.
Quite simply, we've sailed two totora reed boats down
one of South America's longest river systems. That may
sound like a small task, but it is easy to overlook the
work involved. It also easy to forget the work done by
so many before the expedition kicked off properly. While
the work of John Blashford Snell, the sheer industry of
Yolima Cipagauta, the quiet manoeuvrings of Jim Masters
and the ever present support of Barry Moss are all greatly
appreciated, several worked just as hard and don't get
the pleasure of the Expedition. Keeping a flotilla of
boats going involves the support and energy of many, including
all our sponsors. Keeping that flotilla in touch with
the world they are working in requires incredible energy
and that work has been held together by those back at
Expedition Base in Motcombe. It is to those, and in particular
to Julie Linsley, that we send our thanks and appreciation
for keeping this thing afloat.
Our community work in Paraguay was clearly appreciated,
in particular the teeth pulling of the dentists. Advice
on community projects and promises to pass on information
about the urgent need for increased services will hopefully
assist several communities in north Paraguay. The anthropological
and archaeological teams have worked in tight teams and
have produced some interesting findings despite working
under limitations of time scale and conditions. As a catalyst
for further work and study the Kota Mama II Expedition
has produced a fantastic array of opportunities that others
can, if they wish, now build on in more detail.
Both Kota Mama II and Viracocha have performed outstandingly
and could cope with at least two months sailing without
need for serious repairs.
A few last words from Colonel John
Blashford Snell. "We have proved that totora reed vessels
could have been used for navigation in this area without
problems, and that they can cope with the conditions when
they get rough. On a broader scale, the work of the teams
has been a great success and warmly received from
the communities we have visited. The governments that
have given us so much support for the journey have also
expressed great interest in our work and findings, so
we hope they will be used for further work as well. Most
importantly, we are returning home with everybody fit
and in good health."
From the members who have sailed on any or all parts of
the expedition journey, thank you to all involved with
the Expedition and to all those who have offered support
- physical, financial and emotional. Your support has
been essential in the success of this venture.
Photographs and reports for Kota Mama Phase I and II
are courtesy of Ashton and Waverly. |
|
| |
|
|
|
